Mesa Nada

Featured
(2025 Balloons and Beyond Ep 12)

We left Black Canyon of the Gunnison bound for Mesa Verde, several hours away in southwest Colorado.  Our route took us near Telluride, a former mining town that is now a popular tourist destination and ski resort, and across several mountain passes, where the Rocky Mountain fall colors were on full display.

Rocky Mountain fall colors

Brief Reunion

Pat’s brother, James, met us for the night near Cortez, CO.  We enjoyed dinner outdoors and compared our travel experiences since parting ways in Wyoming several weeks prior.  He was returning to Florida after traveling further west in Wyoming and Idaho.

The day ended with a beautiful fiery sunset over the San Juan Mountains.

Pat’s brother, James, met us as he returned to Florida
Sunset near Cortez, CO

Green Table

At Mesa Verde National Park the next morning, we stopped at the visitor center to check on tours of the park’s ancient cliff dwellings.  The park rangers were unsure how the US government shutdown would affect the three tours we booked during our stay.  They said it was even possible we might have to leave the park.

The Mesa Verde entrance road zigzags up iconic Point Lookout on the way to the pueblos and cliff dwellings

While setting up at the national park campground, we took Pap off Percy. We often do this when staying two or more nights as it is easier to maneuver and park the truck without its piggyback friend. The gas mileage also is much better.

It takes fewer than 15 minutes to lower Pap’s four side legs so the camper is above the truck bed, drive the truck from beneath the camper and then lower it about halfway to the ground onto four screw jacks.  In case you were wondering, putting Pap back onto Percy takes about 30 minutes.

That evening we drove the 15-mile narrow and winding road to the mesa top and cliff dwelling areas.  From the park’s highest point, we could see how Mesa Verde got its name.  Ahead of us was a relatively flat expanse covered with green pinyon pines and junipers.  It looked like a green table – translated to Mesa Verde in Spanish.

Spruce Tree House has about 130 rooms
Square Tower House, is a four story, 27-foot-tall structure surrounded by 24 rooms

We viewed the Spruce Tree House and Square Tower House cliff dwellings from the mesa top and wondered, like many visitors, about the ancient Puebloans that built and lived in the structures.  How did they get from the mesa tops and canyon valleys to the dwellings? Where did they get water and food? Why was the area abandoned around 700 years ago?

We hoped to learn answers to these and other questions during the tours.

Mesa Nada

Unfortunately, the tours were not to be. 

We rose the next morning before sunrise and drove to the meeting location of the Square Tower House tour.  Almost there, we were stopped by a gate with road closed signs.  We learned the US government had indeed shut down. All of the Mesa Verde’s historic sites were closed and our tours were cancelled.

From past travels we’ve learned that changed plans often yield unexpected surprises and blessings. 

We were thrilled to see lots of mule deer and four black bears in the campground area. 

A couple of the many mule deer near the campground
A mama black bear and her two cubs seen on an early morning drive

Later, we hiked to the top of Point Lookout, the iconic geological formation that towers above the park entrance. From the point, we were rewarded with views of the distant San Juan Mountains and valleys below.

Climbing the steep and rocky trail to Point Lookout
View of valley and distant mountains from Point Lookout – we were right on the edge!

Answers to the questions above?

Most of the pueblos and cliff dwellings started around 600 AD were abandoned by 1300 AD following prolonged drought and social upheavals.  The residents subsisted by growing maize on the mesa tops and by hunting. Narrow, steep trails connected the pueblos and cliff dwellings to the mesa top and sources of water.  

Perhaps we’ll learn more complete details during a future visit to Mesa Verde.  That is, of course, if the US government isn’t shut down!

The original auto route to Mesa Verde’s mesa and cliff dwellings was described as a knife edge

Onward to the Balloon Fiesta

We left Mesa Verde a week before the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta.  We ate lunch in Farmington, a sizeable town in northern New Mexico with a HUGE Walmart, and continued southwest to a remote Harvest Host location.

Navajo Mission

The Navajo Brethren in Christ Mission ministers to Navajo communities
Numerous buildings and a small church are part of the Mission

Our stay at the Navajo Brethren in Christ Mission revealed various ways the mission reaches out to Navajo residents in the area.  The mission offers food, clothing, education assistance and the hope of Christ through their church ministry and fellowship programs.  We camped a quarter mile from the Mission where the quiet sagebrush and cactus covered camping area was interrupted by passing water trucks, squeaking oil well grasshoppers and mooing cows.

Cows and oil wells from our remote campsite

Abiquiu and the Georgia O’Keefe Connection

Our travels continued.

We camped several nights at a Corps of Engineers dam near Abiquiu, NM. Our campsite had a great view of the Abiquiu Reservoir and the red rock canyons and mountains in the distance. 

Abiquiu Reservoir and distant red rock canyons and mountains

Abiquiu is best known for its connection with artist Georgia O’Keefe, where she had a home and studio.  Her work was inspired by colorful and dramatic landscapes in the area that include the Abiquiu Reservoir and Ghost Ranch, a nearby education and retreat center.

My Front Yard Summer by Georgia O’Keefe (1941) captures the beautiful landscapes near Abiquiu
We hiked to a beautiful lookout overlooking Ghost Ranch. The flat top mountain in the background is in the painting above
A daunting reminder of the wilderness around Ghost Ranch
Ghost Ranch locations have been used in many movies including City Slickers (1991), Cowboys vs Aliens (2011) and Oppenheimer (2024). This cabin was used in City Slickers.

Santa Fe and Meow Wolf

Our final night before the Balloon Fiesta was in Santa Fe (click to see RabbiTRAILS Ep 6 / Ep 7 / Ep 8).  During prior visits we walked around the historic downtown square and toured nearby Los Alamos and Bandolier National Monument.  We’ll save those for future RabbiTRAILS blogs should we visit again.

Meow Wolf is an unusual attraction in Santa Fe

This time, however, we wanted to visit Meow Wolf, an unusual attraction formed in 2008 as part of an art collective of more than 135 local artists.  The venue is a 20,000 square foot immersive art experience, where visitors wander through dozens of rooms and secret passages, attempting to unravel the mysterious disappearance of a family that experimented with interdimensional travel to bring back a deceased family member. (crazy, huh!)    

Meow Wolf can be described as a combination of huge escape room and Disney Imagineering. It has been replicated in Las Vegas, Dallas, Houston and Denver. Each location has a distinct theme and narrative.

We visited many unique rooms
Lots of Pats in a mirror room
We weren’t quite sure about the meaning of this and several other rooms
Pat prepares to go through the refrigerator portal to another room. There were also fireplace and dryer portals.
An interesting robot in the Meow Wolf parking lot

Next Week

From Santa Fe’s immersive Meow Wolf experience and Albuquerque’s colorful Balloon Fiesta, our route turns eastward to six state parks in Texas.   As we cross the Lone Star State, the RabbiTRAILS vary from deep canyons to mountaintop telescopes to big thicket swamps.  And one with a creepy tarantula that crossed our path just before sunset!

Mesa Verde NP: Where Did The Cliff Dwellers Go?

(2019 Grand Teton Ep 21)

A few miles east of the Canyonlands there are archaeological sites containing dwellings and relics of ancestral pueblo people that lived in the area until around 800 years ago.  Many of these sites are preserved at Canyons of the Ancients and Hovenweep National Monuments, Escalante Pueblo (at the Anasazi Heritage Center) and Mesa Verde National Park.

We could only spend a couple days in the area (map point 15) before continuing home, so our visits had to be short.

Escalante Pueblo and Distant Mountains
Escalante Pueblo Ruin

After seeing a hand therapist in Cortez, Colorado for my dislocated finger, we toured the Anasazi Heritage Center, a short distance from town.  The center has interactive exhibits on archaeology, local history and Native America cultures, and includes a full-scale mock-up of an Anasazi pit house from around 1000 AD.  We then walked a half mile trail up to Escalante Pueblo, a partially excavated surface ruin that has at least 20 rooms and a kiva. From the hilltop, we enjoyed views of the Delores River and McPhee Reservoir, and several distant mountain ranges.

The next morning we drove to Mesa Verde National Park about 30 minutes from Cortez.  I first visited the park with my family when I was teenager.  Pat, our children and I have visited the park a half dozen times over the years.

Although Mesa Verde is Spanish for Green Table, the park actually slopes to the south.  From the visitor center at the park entrance, added since our last visit, a steep winding road scales the face of the mesa and continues nearly 25 miles to the ruins.  The park is the largest archaeological preserve in the US, with over 5000 sites and 600 cliff dwellings.

Tickets are required for ranger-led tours of three of the most well-known and visited cliff dwellings (see below).  Unfortunately tickets were sold out the day of our visit, so we settled for two self-guided tours.

We visited Step House after hiking 3/4 mile via a steep and winding trail that descends 100 ft.  The dwelling has more than a dozen rooms and several kivas.  We enjoyed cool shadows during an otherwise warm late September afternoon.

Step House
Step House

Several miles away, Spruce Tree House has 130 rooms and 8 kivas.  It the easiest cliff dwelling to access via a 1/2 mile round trip trail that descends only 100 ft with no steps or ladders.  Unfortunately we could only view the ruin from the mesa above – the trail and cliff dwelling were closed due to rock fall from the cliff above the ruin.  The view was amazing none-the-less.

Spruce Tree House
Spruce Tree House

Here is some information about ranger-led tours – we have visited these dwellings several times previously.

Cliff Palace, the largest cliff dwelling in North America, has 150 rooms and 23 kivas, and supported around 125 people.  You must follow a steep trail with four ladders to descend to the ruin and ascend back to the parking lot.

Cliff Palace

Not far away, Balcony House has 40 rooms.  You descend a LONG (and scary!) ladder to reach the ruin, crawl through a short tunnel, and then ascend a steep cliff face back to the parking lot.  This tour was one of our favorites!

Long House is located several miles away on the Wetherill Mesa.  After hiking more than two miles to reach the ruin, you must climb two ladders and a steep staircase to the 150 room cliff dwelling.

There is much more to see at Mesa Verde, and at least two days are needed to take it all in.  The park is a fascinating place to visit.


Our homeward drive to the east continued the next day.  Near Taos, New Mexico, we encountered a different type of fascinating and rather unique dwellings.

More on our visit next week.