Family, Food, Favorites and Fun

(2024 Heartland Ep 4)

Our journey shifted to the five weeks between the Texas and Ohio Cedarbrook camps. We traveled through the American heartland and took time to do important things close to our hearts.

Visiting Family in Boerne

We headed west to Boerne, a small town about 30 minutes from San Antonio. There, we would visit Jim and Bobbi, my brother and his wife, and Dawn, our niece. 

It was good to catch up on life since our last visit two years ago.

Visiting the Thompsons in Boerne

We camped nearby at Guadalupe River State Park.  The river snakes 230 miles from the Texas Hill Country near Boerne to the Gulf of Mexico.  In the park, there are swift flowing rapids and calm water stretches surrounded by steep limestone bluffs. 

Images from Guadalupe River State Park

Seeking relief from the relentless Texas heat, people waded and swam in the cool water. Nearby, twisted cypress trees grew along both sides of the river.

Revisiting Favorites

My brother and wife used to own a B&B and wine tour business in nearby Fredericksburg, so we’ve visited the area numerous times.  We returned to some of our favorite places:

Old Tunnel State Park – millions of Mexican freetail bats live in an abandoned railroad tunnel between Fredericksburg and Comfort. They exit each summer evening to consume millions of insects.   From a viewing area at the top of a hill, we hiked down to see the tunnel. Inside, there were hundreds of bats flying about in the tunnel, presumably getting ready for their evening flight.

A view of the Old Tunnel, an abandoned railroad tunnel between Comfort and Fredericksburg
At sunset during summer months, millions of Mexican freetail bats exit the Old Tunnel, swirling upward from the dark area in the center of this photo

Alamo Springs Cafe – we were disappointed the restaurant adjacent to the tunnel was closed that day. We were craving the best jalapeno burgers in Texas (so we think). We considered driving to Llano, north of Fredericksburg, for amazing Texas BBQ at Cooper’s Old-Time Pit Bar-B-Que, but the round trip was more than 100 miles and our time was short.

So, at the enthusiastic recommendation of a friend, we tried Mary’s Tacos in Boerne. Mary’s street tacos are amazingly fresh and delicious.

Mary’s Tacos – best street tacos in Boerne

We now have a new restaurant to revisit on our next Texas visit.

Rustlin’ Robs – a visit to Fredericksburg wouldn’t be complete without grazing RR’s free samples of jellies, salsas and sauces spooned on little crackers.

There’s lots more to see and do in the area, but this is all we had time for this time around.

More Family Visits

Our next stop would be near Tulsa, Oklahoma for a visit with Pat’s cousins and their families. We haven’t seen them for more than 20 years,

We continued north to the Kansas City area to visit Pat’s aunt and uncle, whom we saw last year on our trip to Alaska.  Married more than 71 years, they have an enduring testimony.

Visits with Pat’s cousins and families in Claremore, OK and Pat’s Aunt and Uncle in Shawnee, Kansas

We try to make reconnecting with family a priority.  Each visit has proven to be an incredible blessing to us both!

Harvest Hosts – Camping in the Heartland  

We often stop at Harvest Hosts locations during our travels.  Hosts are homeowners, farms, vineyards, churches, museums and more that make their properties available for travelers to camp overnight, often free or for a small fee. 

Various Harvest Hosts we have stopped at during our Heartland travels

We’ve stayed on dairy farms, vineyards, several museums and even a flower farm!  Gracious homeowners have allowed us to stay on their properties, where we enjoyed getting to know each other.

A couple hours north of Kansas City, we stopped at one HH location in Missouri, where we visited with hosts Ken and Robin for nearly two hours.  We learned we have much in common as Christ-followers and RVers, and enjoyed Robin’s fresh cookies as we learned about interesting things to do in the area.

Mail Delivery Across the West
Pony Express monument in downtown St Joseph

At their suggestion, we detoured the next morning to St Joseph, MO, location of the Pony Express Museum and starting point of the Pony Express.   Starting in April 1860, Pony Express riders carried mail nearly 2000 miles from St Joseph to Sacramento, California.  They exchanged horses at relay stations every 10-15 miles and new riders took over every 75-100 miles.    Mail could be delivered in 10 days for $5, a considerable price at that time.

Detailed map of the Pony Express route from St Joseph, Missouri to Sacramento, California, nearly 2000 miles

A bold and storied part of the American past, the Pony Express existed for only 18 months – it was replaced by the telegraph.

Quick RabbiTRAILS

As we drove America’s heartland, there were plenty of interesting stops.  Here are a few:     

World’s largest Bowie knife in Bowie, Texas – it stands 20 ft 6 inches. That’s bigger than Pap!
Will Rogers birthplace near Claremore, Oklahoma. We wondered if he made use of the privy…
We sampled a cherry limeade Frostie soda at the Pops 66 roadside attraction on Route 66 near Oklahoma City;
the soda bottle in background is 66 foot tall!
Hundreds of huge windmills can be seen throughout the heartland – each can power up to 940 homes at a cost of $2-4 million
Here’s Johnny! Johnny Carson’s birthplace at Corning, Iowa – October 23, 1925
Next Week

We visit Des Moines, Iowa, in the heart of the heartland.       

1100 Miles and Heartfelt Camp Smiles

(2024 Heartland Ep 3)

Our 2024 Heartland Journey Begins

A last minute photo before leaving

Our travels got underway the second Sunday in June.  We visited Liz and Josh and our two grands, Henry and Emilia, near Warner Robins, GA, where we moochdocked in their driveway.  Like most grandparents, we marveled at how quickly they are growing up.  

A peaceful view after a thunderstorm at Blackwater River SP

We left Georgia and continued to the western part of the Florida panhandle, where we spent the night at Blackwater River SP.   A thundershower grumbled in the distance, so we quickly set up camp.   

Once we were confident the storm was not getting closer, we followed a path to view the tea-colored river.  It twisted and turned with numerous sandbars on both sides of the flow.  The water in one backflow area was mirror-smooth, reflecting the sun and clouds.

We continued across Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana, where we camped two nights in the bayou state.   We drove Louisiana Route 8 westward and neared the Sabine River, the border between Louisiana and Texas.  Ahead, a yellow sign warned the clearance of the bridge was 12 foot 3 inches.  Images of the tops of campers and trucks smashing into low bridges came to mind, so we quickly flipped down our passenger side windshield visor. 

Checking our height before a low bridge crossing between Louisiana and Texas

When riding on Percy, Pap is 12 foot 0 inches high.  To be safe, we slowed considerably as we crossed the bridge and passed into Texas with three inches to spare! Whew!

Views from our campsite on Steinhagen Reservoir in eastern Texas – a sunset and passing gator

Our two final nights before camp were spent at a Corps of Engineers campground on Steinhagen Reservoir near Jasper, TX.  Our campsite was right on the lake, and we enjoyed two beautiful sunsets.

Anchored in Truth

For the next week Pat and I were on staff with Camp Cedarbrook Texas, a Christ-centered, Bible-based camp near Huntsville, TX.   More than 100 campers arrived on Sunday, and for the next six days and nights we modeled and taught about God’s truths of grace, forgiveness and new life for those who believe in Jesus. 

CCT offers campers a broad outdoor program that includes horsemanship and riding, archery, riflery, canoeing and kayaking, swimming, survival skills and lots more.  Pat and I led ‘Fire and Food’ activity, where we taught campers how to build and cook over a fire.  Pat worked with younger girls, and I taught younger boys.

We joined our cabin groups at a cookout one evening

Whoo (CCT staff) shows third/fourth grades campers a model rocket he built as they work on their own model rockets
Campers receive mail from the CCT ‘Pony Express’ (horsemanship activity)
Evening worship included skits, and fun and worship songs

We enjoyed dining hall meals, evening worship times and nightly outdoor programs. 

50 and 1 Stars

Following devotions and breakfast each morning, all campers and staff attended a flag raising ceremony.  When presenting the colors, it was interesting that the Texas state flag, with its single white star, was proudly displayed.  

Flag raising ceremony

These were Texans after all!

Next Week

We say goodbye to CCT campers and staff friends, and continue west toward San Antonio for a visit with my brother and his family.     

Bent Leg Blues and Catching Up (part 2)

(2024 Heartland Ep 2)

In recent years we have made several late-winter/early-spring camping trips to the Florida Keys. This year’s trip has some interesting surprises.

Robert is Here has an amazing selection of local and exotic fruits and vegetables

Robert is Here!

Fist-sized green Emu eggs would make a rather pricey omelet!

Our Florida Keys journey began with a stop at Robert is Here, an amazing fruit stand near Homestead at the start of the Keys. Dozens of local and exotic fruits and vegetables, and amazing fresh fruit-flavored milkshakes, can be purchased.  

The attraction was named for a sign Robert’s dad made to get the attention of people passing by his six-year-old son’s small fruit stand in 1959.  That day all of his produce was sold by noon and Robert’s lifelong fruit stand business was born!   

On to the Keys and John Pennekamp State Park 

From Florida City on the Florida mainland to its end in Key West, the Overseas Highway counts down 126 miles.  There’s lots to see and do all along the drive!

Our first stop was at mile marker 102.5 near Key Largo to spend a week at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park.  The park is known for coral reefs located several miles off the ocean side of the island.  Excursion boats carry snorkelers who view the coral and various sea life, and scuba divers who swim to a well-known underwater statue of Christ. 

Underwater statue of Christ at John Pennekamp SP (from Fla State Park website)

Due to choppy sea conditions, we opted for a glass bottom boat tour.  Unfortunately, the reefs were seriously damaged by high water temperatures last summer (as high as 101.1 F) and the reef views were disappointing.  One can only hope the reefs will recover with more normal ocean temperatures.

We did enjoy bicycling and hiking several short trails in the park and nearby.  A highlight of our visit was kayaking some very interesting ‘water trails’ in the park mangroves.

Pat kayaking in the mangrove canals at John Pennekamp SP

Crocs, Gators and More in the Everglades

We took two day trips to Everglades National Park.  At the northern boundary of the park, we bicycled the 15-mile Shark Valley loop road, passing herons, egrets and numerous alligators. The highlight of the ride was a viewing tower from which we could see expansive grasslands and hammocks.  The tower reminded us of a similar structure at Clingman’s Dome in Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Viewing tower at Shark Valley in Everglades NP

Shark valley views – biking, birds and trailside gators

The next day we drove to Flamingo, a developed area deep in the heart of the national park.  They have an excellent visitor center, campground, other accommodations and marina. 

Snarly-toothed crocodile at Flamingo

At the marina boat landing, a park ranger kept curious visitors at a safe distance from two large snarly-toothed crocodiles that were sunning themselves.  We learned the Everglades has crocodiles AND alligators – both are rather ominous!  Meanwhile, several manatees swam at boat docks not too far away.

We hiked along an overgrown canal to Florida Bay; the tall white feathered fellow blocked the path

Later, we hiked along an overgrown canal trail to a viewpoint of the Florida Bay.  We saw many birds, including one rather tall white egret that blocked the trail for a bit, and a number of stealthy alligators trying to hide nearby.

Elevation 3 feet – the Everglades are flat!

As we exited the park that afternoon, we stopped at Rock Reef Pass, elevation 3 foot.  The Everglades are remarkably flat, indeed!

We tried a cinnamon bun at Doc’s Diner in Key Largo – it was 4+ (out of 5) sweet goodness

On to Bahia Honda State Park

Bahia Honda sunset seen from the campground

From Pennekamp SP we continued on the Overseas Highway past the busy towns of Islamorada and Marathon, and across the seven-mile bridge to Bahia Honda State Park, mile marker 37.8.  The park is one of our favorite places to camp.

We bicycled to see the remains of a railroad bridge built by Henry Flagler.  The railroad to Key West was an amazing engineering feat for its time.  Completed in 1912, trains made the trip for 23 years before the bridges and rail lines were seriously damaged by the Labor Day Hurricane of 1935.   The railway was turned over to the state and converted to an automobile highway in the following years.

There are beaches on both sides of the island – an oceanside beach faces the Strait of Florida and Cuba, and a gulf-side beach faces Florida Bay and distant Everglades.  There are places to camp on both sides of the island.

Construction workers and supplies were staged on Pigeon Key during construction of the 7 Mile railroad bridge

Pigeon Key – A Tiny Island with a Big Story

One day we visited Pigeon Key, a small island visible from the seven-mile bridge.  We took a tram nearly three miles on the original Bahia Honda bridge to the island that was used as a work camp when the original railroad bridge was built.  Photos and relics in Pigeon Key buildings give an interesting history about the railroad.

Ouch! Pap has a bent leg

Pap Gets A Bent Leg

We have been blessed with relatively few issues with our vehicles and campers as we have traveled over the years. 

We had an unfortunate accident when arriving at Bahia Honda.  As we entered the campground, the front camper jack hit a post that protected the campground entry keypad. The jack, used to raise the camper, was significantly bent.   Pap had to stay on Percy until we got home and the jack was replaced.  It was an unfortunate and expensive lesson.          

Next Week 

Our heartland journey begins as we travel to Huntsville, TX for a week at Camp Cedarbrook Texas.

Heartland Bound and Catching Up (part 1)

(2024 Heartland Ep 1)

Welcome to RabbiTRAILS as we get underway with our summer 2024 travels. 

After an epic 2023 journey to Alaska, we are staying (much) closer to home this year.

Why 2024 Heartland? 

Much of our trip this year will be traveling through the central United States heartland from Texas to Minnesota.  We’re bound to see oilwells, windmills, cattle herds, cicadas and miles of cornfields. Hopefully we won’t encounter tornadoes and hailstorms!

Other affairs of the heart will be at play as we travel:  catching up with family in Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas and possibly Connecticut, and a visit with a close friend in New Hampshire.

We top it all off with something near and dear to our hearts:  two weeks serving at Camp Cedarbrook camps in Texas and Ohio.  As we connect all of this together, we’ll be on the lookout for interesting RabbiTRAILS to follow and share with you.

Before things get underway, there’s some catching up needed since our last blog post in December: 2023 Alaska Revisited Recap.

Catching Up, Part 1

Earlier this year Percy, Pap and a new addition carried us on a couple trips.

When we travel closer to home, Pat and I enjoy kayaking in addition to biking.  There’s no easy way to take kayaks with our current setup, so we purchased a small utility trailer and configured it to haul two kayaks, our bikes and assorted other camping gear.  Introducing Junior, Percy and Pap’s first cousin!    

Junior, our little utility trailer, joins Percy and Pap
Our travels included Tomoka and Manatee Springs State Parks in Florida

Tomoka State Park

In January, we camped with longtime friends, John and Carol, at Tomoka State Park a few miles north of Daytona Beach.  Located on the Tomoka River, the park includes the site of an ancient Timucuan Indian village and a large statue of Timucuan Chief Tomokie.  The monument is a reminder that the area was populated by Native Americans for centuries before Europeans arrived.

Chief Tomokie statue in Tomoka State Park

For several days we kayaked, biked and took several local side trips.  We toured nearby Bulow Plantation Ruins Historic State Park.  Developed in 1821, the plantation was once the largest plantation in East Florida where indigo, cotton, rice and sugarcane were cultivated.  The plantation was destroyed in the Seminole War of 1836, and, although many of the original plantation structures no longer exist, sizeable remnants of a large sugar mill can still be seen.  The plantation is an interesting part of Florida history.

Ruins of the sugar mill at Bulow Ruins Historic State Park

Aunt Catfish’s Cinnamon Bun

We stopped for lunch at Aunt Catfish’s on the River restaurant in Port Orange.  The menu offerings were what one would expect at a southern-style seafood restaurant. We learned they served homemade cinnamon buns and it was game on!  Although the buns were smaller than the ginormous buns we sampled on our 2023 Alaska Revisited journey, they were wonderfully sweet and cinnamony.  We had to have more than one to satisfy our bun craving!

Manatee Springs State Park

We left Tomoka and crossed the state, where we camped at Manatee Springs State Park. 

Manatee Springs is a first magnitude (e.g. large) spring that flows into the Suwannee River.  A boardwalk extends nearly a quarter mile from the spring through a swampy area with tall Spanish moss-covered cypress trees.  The boardwalk ends at a small pier on the Suwannee River. 

A quarter mile boardwalk runs from Manatee Springs to the Suwannee River

One morning we kayaked the run and along the Suwannee for several miles, where we enjoyed the sunny, cool and quiet surroundings.

Pat and Carol kayaking near Manatee Springs

When we returned to the spring, we were delighted to find several manatees swimming near the boat launch area.  We paused for several minutes to watch the large potato-shaped animals swim about and surface from time to time.  I used my GoPro camera to capture some underwater photos of the spectacle.      

Manatee and reflection at Manatee Springs SP

As we walked along the boardwalk one evening, we noticed the cypress trees surrounding the spring run were filled with hundreds of large, American black vultures. It was a rather Gothic spectacle in the evening twilight.

Hundreds of vultures watched us from cypress trees near the springs

Our Manatee Springs stay included visits to Cedar Key, where we rode our bicycles around the small Gulf Coast community, and Fanning Springs, where we admired a remnant of an old bridge that crossed the Suwannee River inscribed with the title of Stephen Foster’s memorable song, “Way Down Upon the Suwannee River!”

One of four spans from the bridge that crossed the Suwannee River at Fanning Springs has been preserved. The bridge was built in 1934.

Henry Turns 6

Our trip ended near Macon, GA with a sixth birthday celebration for our grandson, Henry.

Son-in-law Josh, daughter Liz, and grandkids, Emilia and Henry; Henry celebrates his birthday

Next Week

Catching Up (part 2): Florida Keys and Everglades National Park

2023 Alaska Revisited: Series Finale

(2023 Alaska Revisited Ep 30)

We’ve come to the end of our 2023 Alaska Revisited blog series.  It was a blessing to have you follow us for over six months and 30 episodes, and your encouraging comments were really appreciated!

This final episode provides some stats and interesting details, along with related photos. 

In addition, Pat and I answer various questions about the trip (favorite campground, best hike and so forth) – from when we left home thru Vancouver, BC, and then north thru Canada and Alaska until we returned home.   

Finally, we reveal our favorite cinnamon bun of the trip!

Route of 2023 Alaska Revisited trip

Part 1 – By The Numbers

190 days – total length of trip.  185 days were camping
137 – places we camped. The longest single stay was four days at Whitehorse, Yukon.
$21.93 – average cost per night. The most paid was $65 at Rincon Beach, California.
37 – free nights at pull offs, moochdocking, Walmart and Cracker Barrel.
$303/$413 – cost of laundry and propane.

Q&A – Home thru Vancouver – March 25 thru June 6

Rincon Beach, CA

Favorite campground

(Pat) Rincon Parkway Campground, CA – epic camping right on the Pacific.  Magnificent sunset!
(Ed) Organ Pipe Cactus NP – remote, quiet and many types of beautiful cacti

Tonto NM and desert super bloom

Favorite place visited

(P) Driving the Pacific Coast Highway:  coastline, classic bridges and elephant seals.  Enjoyed the whole thing!
(E) Tonto National Monument desert super bloom – surprise detour with steep uphill hike to cliff dwelling among yellow, gold, white and blue desert flowers

Cave hiking in Pinnacles NP

Best hike

(P) Tonto National Monument desert super bloom – see above
(E) Lower Bear Gulch Cave Trail, Pinnacles NP, CA – hike along creek in deep crevasse and up rocky stairs to a small reservoir.  We thought we saw a California condor in the nearby peaks.

Fish and chips for two in Tofino

Favorite Meal

(P) Fresh Harvest Cafe, Florence. OR – Mother’s Day breakfast, a lot of food that we really enjoyed.
(E) Big Daddy’s Fish Fry, Tofino, BC – fish and chips in a cozy little restaurant on Vancouver Island, the two-piece order was enough for us both!

The Spruce Goose spans the entire museum building

Favorite Attraction

(P) Evergreen Aviation and Space Museum, McMinnville, OR – in addition to lots of interesting planes and space displays, we got to go inside the Spruce Goose and sit in Howard Hughes’ pilot seat.
(E) Redwoods – we had a ‘wow’ reaction every time we walked among the big trees.

Sandstone waves in Valley of Fire SP

Favorite National or State/Provincial Park

(P) Humboldt Redwood State Park, CA – we camped in a Redwood grove.
(E) Valley of Fire SP near Las Vegas, NV – desert camping and hiking amid weather-etched sandstone.  We also watched big horn sheep butt horns just a few yards from our campsite.

Bixby Bridge on Pacific Coast Highway near Big Sur

Most Amazing View

(P) Super bloom of desert flowers in Arizona – beyond Tonto NM, desert blooms cast distant hills in yellow and orange.
(E) Pacific Coast Highway near Big Sur – see Pat’s favorite place visited above.

Tire swap at the Alaska border

Part 2 – By The Numbers

21785 – total miles driven
$8438 – total gas cost ($ 2.87/gal – lowest price at Murphy/Walmart in Warner Robins, GA, $6.31/gal – highest at Bob’s Welding, Inuvik NWT)
3 – Percy oil changes
2 – flat tires – at the Alaska border and on the Dempster Highway
8 – US/Canada Border Crossings
14 – ferry rides to Vancouver Island and across the Yukon, Mackenzie, and Peel Rivers, all in Canada

Q&A – North thru Canada and Alaska thru Home – June 7 thru October 1

Alaska Range view on the Denali Highway

Favorite place camped 

(P) Boondocking near Arctic Circle on Dempster Highway – remote pullout where we enjoyed fall colors of the tundra and picked blueberries
(E) Milepost 96 on the Denali Highway – we hiked under a rainbow with views of Alaska Range in the distance.   We were all alone!

Percy poses at the Arctic Ocean, nearly 5000 miles from home

Favorite place visited

(P/E) Dempster Highway and the Arctic Ocean:  1000 miles of dirt road and a once in a lifetime experience.

Fireweed and distant mountains on the Denali Park Road

Best hike

(P/E) Denali NP near Teklanika Campground – the park bus dropped us off at Sable Ridge and we walked several miles along the road.  We enjoyed phenomenal mountain views and dodged a road-hogging caribou!

Fresh salmon and chocolate-frosted cake – a delicious way to celebrate Ed’s 66th birthday!

Favorite Meal

(P) Burger Bus in Kenai – fish/chips and a cheeseburger combo on a cold and rainy day. It brought back fond memories of Burger Bus meals on our 2018 Alaska trip.

(E)  Pat’s dinner for my 66th birthday:  fresh salmon caught in an adjacent lagoon and a homemade cake.  Wow!

Lu-lu Belle approaching Columbia Glacier, expertly piloted by Captain Fred

Favorite Attraction

(P/E) Lu-lu Belle glaciers and wildlife cruise near Valdez – ten-hour cruise to see seals, puffins, whales, goats, and the Columbia Glacier.  It was amazing!

Bugling elk in Jasper NP

Favorite National or State/Provincial Park

(P) Denali NP – four days of great views, hikes, and camping.
(E) Jasper/Banff NP – bugling elk and spectacular Rocky Mountain views

Peyto Lake view in Banff NP

Most Amazing View

(P) Peyto Glacier and Lake Overlook, Banff NP – we were rewarded after a VERY steep hike to the overlook.  The blue color of the lake was beautiful.
(E) Denali Airflight – we flew through rugged mountains near Denali and landed on a glacier!

Checking the daily schedule….

Part 3 – By The Numbers

18 – moose, all mamas and babies, no Bullwinkles.
30 – bears, 14 grizzly and 16 black bears.
Billions and billions – hungry mosquitoes.
3 and 2 – Star Trek-themed attractions and Gorns.
100,002+ – signs in the Watson Lake signpost forest, including two of ours.
320 feet, 11 inches – wingspan of the Spruce Goose H-4 Hercules
20310 feet – elevation of the Great One, Denali
22 hours, 6 mins – length of day on June 27 at Chena Hot Springs near Fairbanks
7/15/23 10:48 pm – 7.2 magnitude earthquake for which we received scary cell phone evacuation alerts. 
20 – frozen toes that dipped into the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk, NWT.
13 – Cinnamon buns eaten (countless calories) (doesn’t include cinnamon bun-flavored cookies and popcorn).

Best Cinnamon Bun

And now, the big reveal you have been waiting for. 

It wasn’t an easy choice, but we agreed our trip’s BEST cinnamon bun was at Braeburn Lodge, an unostentatious restaurant an hour north of Whitehorse, Yukon.

Best bun from Braeburn

We split a huge, pillowy, cinnamon, deliciously-iced bun – bun perfection by any measure!

Looking Ahead to 2024

In the new year we will explore new RabbiTRAILs at a couple north Florida state parks in January and then camp in the Florida Keys in February. We’ll have other travel plans to announce as the year unfolds.

See you in 2024. Have a blessed Christmas and Happy New Year!

Badland Raves and Mammoth Cave

(2023 Alaska Revisited Ep 29)

Our trip home included visits to two national parks.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park

After the death of his wife and mother on Valentine’s Day 1884, Teddy Roosevelt sought solitude and healing in the North Dakota Badlands.    The rugged landscape and strenuous life that he experienced there helped shape the conservation policy we benefit from today.

The rugged badlands at Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota

His ranch and two nearby areas are now part of Theodore Roosevelt National Park. 

The Little Missouri River winds through the park

We spent three days in the park and marveled at the weathered landscape and the Little Missouri River that winds through the park.  Two scenic drives provided plenty of viewing opportunities of deep, layered canyons that cut into the grassed prairie and a wide variety of Great Plains wildlife, including bison, pronghorn antelope, elk, bighorn sheep and wild horses. 

God owns bison on a thousand hills… (Psalm 50:10 paraphrase)
This brute eyed us from atop a drop-off. We kept our distance!

We hiked two miles along a small canyon to hard packed bottom land.  The trail passed small dirt piles with a few prairie dogs scurrying about.  We were at the prairie dog suburbs. 

Ahead, we came to many, many more dirt piles and hundreds of the yapping terrier-sized critters that announced our arrival.  Some scurried in and out of holes, and others sat or sprawled lazily, watching us closely.  This was TRNP’s prairie dog city!

Citizens of TRNP prairie dog city

Later we saw a number of unusual cannonball-shaped rocks along the base of an eroded canyon wall.  These were spherical concretions formed by mineral deposits dripping through gaps in the sediment.

Unusual cannonballs jut out of the eroded hillsides, some more than four foot in diameter

A Close Encounter of the Bison Kind

We saw telltale evidence of bison throughout the park.  Individuals and small groups wandered up and down the hills and valleys, including one group of nearly a dozen bison that walked in the middle of one of the scenic drives. Several passed within feet of our truck!

Several bison walked on the road right by our truck

Our mid-September visit to TRNP was enjoyable: the scenic drives and trails weren’t crowded, campsites were available in the park and the weather was pleasant.  If you pass through North Dakota on Interstate 94, the park is a great stop.

We visited the monument of the Lakota Indian holy man and leader Sitting Bull. It is located on a remote bluff above the Missouri River near Mobridge, South Dakota.

From TRNP, we continued south, visiting many of the roadside attractions mentioned recently in RabbiTRAILS episode 27 and episode 28.

Mammoth Cave National Park

Closer to home, we visited Mammoth Cave National Park in south-central Kentucky.  Explorers have surveyed and mapped 426 miles of the cave, making it the world’s longest known cave system.

Our last visit to the cave was in 1991, when we took several ranger-guided cave tours with Liz and Phil, our (now) adult children.  32 years later, our tours included the Extended Historic Modified Tour and Violet City Lantern Tour.

Percy and Pap would easily fit in some Mammoth Cave passages
Something to ponder: when does graffiti become a historic artifact?
Mammoth Cave’s bottomless pit is actually 105 feet deep

We hiked a steep trail down to the cave entrance where we entered the cool cave and walked nearly two underground miles on the two-hour Extended Historic Modified Tour.  The tour included many of the historic areas that originally made the cave famous – visits to huge rooms that gave Mammoth Cave its name and much tighter places deep inside the cave. We endured the narrow passage through fat man’s misery and welcomed the underground restrooms in great relief hall that followed.  The tour also included a side trip to the site of the 1840s Mammoth Cave experiment to treat consumption.

Getting ready for the big squeeze on the way to great relief hall

The next morning’s Violet City Lantern Tour was exclusively by lantern light.  For nearly three hours, we followed the dimly lit three-mile trail as it wound through huge, broad tunnels. We climbed and descended several steep hills on our way to the cave exit. The exit was several miles from the original cave entrance and a bus took us back to the visitor center

The three-hour tour was illuminated with kerosene lanterns

Mammoth Cave has few flowstone formations typically seen in caves. The formations above are at Wondering Woods Cave, a separate cave a few miles from the main cave
Pat walks the mat to save a bat. At the end of each cave tour, we walked across a bio-security mat that kills fungus spores that cause white-nose syndrome fatal to cave bats

Mammoth Cave tours are moderately strenuous. Some of the trails include series of stairs and a few steep climbs.  The rangers do a great job providing interesting historical and geologic details.  Before visiting, we recommend researching the cave tours and buying tickets in advance, as many tours sell out during the busier late-spring and summer months.

Critter Count

bison – many
pronghorn antelope – 36
wild turkey – 11
deer – 16
wild horses – 20
sandhill cranes – 2
prairie dogs – many
snakes – 3
skunk – at least 1 (by the smell)

Next week

We wrap up our 2023 Alaska Revisited trip with a by-the-numbers recap. Pat and I will compare our answers to several questions that include best trip experiences, favorite places camped and most amazing views. 

And we will reveal our pick of the best cinnamon bun of the trip!

Roadtrip Ramblings Pt 2: Mystery Meat, Matchsticks and More

(2023 Alaska Revisited Ep 28)

We hope you are enjoying our roadtrip RabbiTRAILS.  They helped make the long trip home fun and interesting.  Apart from Matchstick Marvels below, all of the places we visited were free. 

A good source of information to plan your own roadtrip to uniquely odd tourist attractions is the Roadside America website.

Matchsticks by the Millions

When I was (much) younger, I shaved the heads off matches and packed them into a copper tube with a flattened end to make a rocket engine of sorts.  After a few (very) low orbit flights of my not-quite-SpaceX booster, I was challenged with what to do with the headless matchsticks. 

We’re not sure if Iowa artist Patrick Acton got his start shaving matchsticks to fuel homemade rockets, but he definitely found a use for matchsticks.

Millions of them.

We stopped at Matchstick Marvels, a small museum in Gladbrook, Iowa.  There, we were amazed by the detailed scale models Acton has created using millions of two-inch-long matchsticks over the last 44+ years.

US Capitol model made from thousands of matchsticks
The details of the Notre Dame Cathedral model were phenomenal!

There was an amazing lighted model of the US Capitol and an intricate model of Notre Dame Cathedral.  A huge Apollo 11 complete with the Saturn V rocket engine and command module soared above us. 

A variety of models are on display in the small museum, from a Space Shuttle poised for takeoff and the USS Forrestal aircraft carrier, along with other ships, several types of planes, dinosaurs and other animals.  

A model of Hill Valley from Back to the Future even included a time traveling DeLorean

A particularly interesting creation was of Hill Valley, the fictional town from the Back to the Future trilogy. The matchstick town was complete with various buildings, courthouse, clock tower and even a DeLorean.

Acton’s creations can be seen in a number of Ripley’s Believe it or Not! Museums throughout North America, Europe and Asia.  They have been featured on numerous television programs and in various publications.

Plowing the Prairie and Feeding the World

As we drove along the gently rolling hills of Minnesota and Iowa, Pat and I were fascinated by rugged farm machinery plowing fields and harvesting crops.  Quite often the equipment was green and yellow and emblazed with the well-known John Deere logo.

John Deere Tractor and Engine Museum in Waterloo, Iowa

We visited the John Deere Tractor and Engine Museum to learn about the history and products of the John Deere company.  The museum includes dozens of restored tractors and other farm machines, various artifacts, and hands-on exhibits.

The John Deere Model D tractor was produced from 1923 to 1953, longest model run of any John Deere tractor
The John Deere 4010 tractor was the first of a new generation of tractors produced from 1960 to 1963. The John Deere 4020 model that followed is regarded as the most popular tractor ever produced by the company

Farming equipment on display ranged from plows and early tractors to an ultramodern air-conditioned tractor with a GPS guidance system.    

What an impact John Deere and other farm machinery manufacturers have had on producing food for a hungry world!

We Get Spammed

As we prepare for RabbiTRAILS journeys we often purchase a can of SPAM in case we are somewhere where groceries aren’t available. 

Pat claims SPAM is most palatable when thinly sliced and cooked until crispy. We’ve tried various flavors, including hickory smoke, maple, hot and spicy, and bacon. They pretty much taste the same. Suffice it to say SPAM is not our favorite menu choice.  

Our greeters as we entered the SPAM museum

Although we had already satisfied our ‘one can of SPAM per trip’ allotment, we stopped at Hormel’s SPAM Museum in Austin MN, to learn all about SPAM!

Bright and interactive displays in the SPAM Museum

Introduced in 1937 as an affordable source of protein during the Great Depression and way to sell pork shoulder, SPAM was named by the brother of a Hormel Foods executive, allegedly the contraction of ‘spiced ham.’  More than 150 million pounds of the pink stuff were consumed by US soldiers during World War II.  They also used SPAM grease to lubricate their guns and waterproof their boots!

Height: 21.5 SPAM cans, beard length: 1.5 SPAM cans

SPAM has been celebrated and maligned over the years as ‘specially processed American meat’, ‘spoiled ham’, ‘stuff posing as meat’, and ‘scientifically processed animal matter’.  Who can forget the Monty Python skit with Vikings chanting ‘SPAM, SPAM, SPAM… ‘, that eventually became the source of the word ‘spam’ to describe unwanted emails.

In case you were wondering, SPAM contains just six ingredients: pork shoulder, water, salt, potato starch, sugar, and sodium nitrite.
A portion of the international SPAM exhibits

Fifteen flavors of SPAM are currently sold in more than 44 countries.  There are international SPAM-related cultural displays and recipes, including exhibits from the Philippines, South Korea, Japan and Hong Kong, where the canned meat is particularly popular. 

Lovin’ It in Hawaii – SPAM, scrambled eggs and rice (from YouTube)

Overall, the US consumes the most SPAM.  Hawaiians have the highest per capita consumption in the US, averaging more than five cans a year per person.  SPAM is even available in many McDonald’s locations in the Aloha state.

205 Years from Now

Earlier in our trip we visited Vasquez Rocks Natural Area near Los Angeles (2023 Alaska Revisited Ep 7), where several episodes of Star Trek were filmed. Last week, we blogged (Ep 27) about our visit to Vulcan, Alberta, home of a Star Trek tourist center and numerous Star Trek and Spock-themed displays around the small town.

We thought it fitting to make another with Star Trek-related RabbiTRAIL stop, this time at the future birthplace of Star Trek’s James T. Kirk in Riverside, Iowa. The Enterprise captain will start his life trek on Saturday, March 22, 2228. 

Riverside, a small town in southeast Iowa near the Amana Colonies and Amish community of Kolona, has erected a monument that establishes the town as Kirk’s future birthplace.  Banners on light poles throughout the town proclaim the town is “Where the Trek Begins.”

Star Trek-themed banners seen throughout the town; we wondered if the Enterprise obeyed the posted speed limit

A Star Trek museum wouldn’t be complete without Gorn; the future Captain Kirk even has his own bronze statue

We stepped inside the Voyage Home History Center just around the corner from the plaque to peruse their Star Trek displays and memorabilia. We learned during the last weekend of June next year the town will host their 39th Trekfest, celebrating all things Star Trek with special guest speakers, costume contests, sports events, a large parade, fireworks and more.

Pat was still trying to beam herself home

One of Riverside’s taverns used to claim to be the location where Captain Kirk was conceived.  Guess we won’t know for sure for another 205 years.

This Enterprise float is part of Riverside’s Trekfest parade each June
Cinnamon Bun Review/Critter Count

None to report this week. Check back in the next RabbiTRAILS episode!

Next Week

After many miles and several mid-west roadtrip RabbiTRAILS, we visit two National Parks as we near completion of our 2023 Alaska Revisited travels.

Roadtrip Ramblings: Live Long and Prosper (and Eat Your Veggies)

(2023 Alaska Revisited Ep 27)

It’s been a while since the last RabbTRAILS update. 

Since getting home four weeks ago, we’ve been playing catchup after six months of Alaska Revisited travels:  deep cleaning Percy and Pap, maintaining our home including some minor repairs to plumbing and sprinkler heads, reconnecting with family and friends, and visiting doctors, dentists and barbers.

Over the next several weeks we will wrap up our 2023 Alaska Revisited blog.

The LONG Long Roadtrip Home

As we left the majestic mountains, roaring rivers and wonderful wildlife of Banff and Jasper NP, we faced the daunting reality that we were more than 2700 miles from home! 

To make the trip a bit more interesting, we decided to visit fun and often kitschy roadside attractions on the way home. 

We hope you enjoy our roadtrip rambles as much as we did!

Live Long and Prosper

As we headed east, the Canadian Rockies gave way to gently rolling corn and wheat fields that extended to the horizon.  Several hours later we arrived at Canada’s Start Trek capital: Vulcan, Alberta.  

Our stop in Vulcan was a follow up to an earlier visit to Vasquez Rocks near Los Angeles, where several original Star Trek episodes were filmed (see RabbiTRAILS 2023 Alaska Revisited Ep 7).

Vulcan, Alberta – Star Trek Capital of Canada

At the edge of town, we admired a large model of the Starship Enterprise and then visited the Vulcan Tourism and Trek Station, the town’s Star Trek-themed visitor center that includes an extensive, curated memorabilia collection, interactive costume displays on the holodeck and a gift shop filled with vintage Star Trek items.

Vulcan’s Trek Station, complete with restrooms!

The town has a fun and interesting Star Trek-related identity, from Enterprise models on light poles to crosswalks painted with Star Trek emblems.  On Vulcan Street, you can stay at the Vulcan Inn, buy groceries at the Vulcan Market, and even eat at the Vulcan Sushi Restaurant, before visiting a bronze bust of Spock and Leonard Nimoy handprint, and a variety of Star Trek-themed murals that adorn the town.

Vulcan’s streets are decked out in the Star Trek motif.
Spock bust and Leonard Nimoy handprint – Live Long and Prosper!

Vulcan’s interesting street murals, including doctors on various Star Trek shows and a Spock-themed ice cream shop!

Pat hoped to beam herself home…

Pat stepped into a streetside transporter, hoping to shorten the trip home.   Although it didn’t work for her, you might want to beam into town in 2024 for a weekend of Star Trek events during the town’s VULCON convention next July! 

Passing by the decked-out Corn Palace
A Palace of Corn?

Perhaps you’ve heard of Corn Palace in Mitchell, South Dakota. 

Originally built in 1892, the façade of the palace is decorated with murals made from different types of naturally colored corn, grains and native grasses.  The murals reflect a different theme chosen each year and are made by cutting ears of corn in half lengthwise and nailing them in place.  It costs $130,000 to decorate the Palace each year!

A closer view of one of the “Under the Big Top” themed murals

Inside, we were expecting an agriculture museum of some sort, with lots of information about corn and various farm implements.   

The Corn Palace is used for sports and entertainment events

Instead, the palace is a sports and entertainment facility, with bleachers, foldaway basketball nets and an open floor area for graduations, concerts and other events.  It is the home of the Dakota Wesleyan University Tiger and Mitchel High School Kernel basketball teams.

The Jolly Green Giant towers over the fields of southeast Minnesota
A Jolly Green Ho, ho, Ho

He’s the purveyor of canned cream corn and squishy little green peas. Hands are on his huge green hips, his sly grin seems to imply, “You can’t have dessert until you finish your vegetables.” 

Suppressing childhood memories of holding my nose and trying not to gag, I was favorably impressed by the tall Jolly Green Giant that stands along I-90 in Blue Earth, MN.  Built in 1978, the 55 ½ foot tall fiberglass statue is the symbol of the B&G foods and vegetable farmers in the area. 

Interesting memorabilia in the Green Giant Museum

We visited the Green Giant Welcome Center and Museum, a mere 10 giant steps across the parking lot.  The museum has an interesting collection of Green Giant memorabilia and displays about the company’s history.

About that dessert…isn’t there a place with cinnamon buns coming up?

Sprout has sprouted a beard…
They Say It’s The World’s Largest Truck Stop

If Buc-ee’s was a truck stop, The Iowa 80, World’s Largest Truck Stop is what the result would be.  The truck stop is 75 acres big, with 150 fuel pumps and parking for more than 900 semi-trucks, dozens of RVs and plenty of cars.  

After setting up at our asphalt campsite (er, parking lot) next to other RVs, we made our way to the truck stop retail building.  The building has a large area with general tourist type items (t-shirts, magnets and the like) and a separate floor with trucker gear.  There is also a food-court area with several fast food restaurants and a separate sit down restaurant. 

The truck stop has more than two acres of retail space

Need to get a haircut, take a shower or have your back adjusted?  No problem!  Those services are offered on upper floors of the truck stop.  You can also watch a movie, visit a dentist, wash your dirty laundry and more!   You won’t find those services at Buc-ee’s.

That night we were serenaded by the growls of semis coming and going from the truck stop. We missed the quiet solitude of Alaska!

Critter Count

Gorn – 1
Jolly Green Giant – 1
Sprout – 1

Gorn, Star Trek’s lizard man, on display at the Vulcan Trek museum
Cinnamon Bun Review

There were no cinnamon buns to be found after we left the Canadian Rockies. 

We were desperate. 

When we came across cinnamon roll-flavored popcorn at the Corn Palace, we HAD to give it a try.  The crunchy popcorn had the cinnamony, sweet taste of breakfast buns.  We didn’t down the exploded kernels with coffee, however!

Bun score – 1 out of 5 (great taste but nothing beats a REAL cinnamon bun!)

Next Week

We get spammed, visit another Star Trek attraction and more, as our roadtrip rambles continue.

Elk Calls and Waterfalls (and more) in the Canadian Rockies

(2023 Alaska Revisited Ep 26)

Canada’s Banff and Jasper National Parks are a common stopover for those driving to or from Alaska.  After nearly two months in Alaska and several weeks in Yukon and Northwest Territories, we decided to check out these parks as we headed home.

The parks encompass the Canadian Rockies, with Jasper NP (and the town of Jasper) to the north and Banff NP (and town of Banff) to the south.   The 143-mile Icefields Parkway, one of the world’s most scenic highways, connects the two parks.

Getting There

From Dawson Creek and the end of the Alaska Highway, we drove southeast past large wheat and hay fields at first, then across rolling hills with dense forests, and finally through low mountains.  We expected to see rugged and tall mountains along the route, but thick forest fire smoke kept them mostly hidden.

The mountains were shrouded in rain and smoke when we arrived at Jasper NP
Jasper National Park

It was drizzling when we arrived at Jasper NP and set up camp.  Near freezing nighttime temps with snow flurries were forecast, so we splurged on a campsite with electricity and water.  That night, we were thankful for the tiny electric heater that kept us warm.

We were awakened by the eerie bugle calls of nearby elk the next morning.  We couldn’t see them but knew they were there!  We opened Pap’s window shades and were elated to see sunshine and the tall mountains surrounding the campground.

A magnificent elk bugles during our trail encounter
An Elk Encounter of the Jasper Kind

After breakfast, we hiked a short trail around Annette Lake. We stopped to watch an elk rubbing its huge antlers against a small tree.  The tree shook back and forth, no match for the big animal.  The elk eyed us warily, so we made plans to take cover in a thick stand of trees nearby should the elk came toward us.  Fortunately, he walked away from us toward the lake and emitted a shrill bugle call, as if to warn us not to follow! 

Narrow Maligne Canyon with a small creek nearly 100 foot below
The Maligne Canyon widens as side creeks join the main flow

Later that day we took a longer and muddier hike along the Maligne Canyon, where a small creek flows through a deep fissure in the rocks.  We crossed several bridges as the trail followed the creek downstream. Other creeks joined the flow and we were soon following a swiftly flowing river.

We had dinner in Jasper, a town similar to Gatlinburg, TN and Estes Park, CO.  The streets and businesses weren’t busy. We were told the busy summer tourist season had ended a few days earlier.

Icefields Parkway     

The next day we started south on the Icefields Parkway.  

Turbulent Athabasca Falls

Our first stop was at Athabasca Falls, a beautiful and powerful waterfall that cascades 75 feet through narrow rock outcroppings on the Athabasca River.  The river starts at the toe of the Athabasca Glacier and eventually to the Arctic Ocean via the Mackenzie River.

Athabasca Glacier
Snow coaches and visitors on the Athabasca Glacier

A few miles south we stopped at the Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre.  To the west we could see the Athabasca Glacier extending downward from the Columbia Icefield.   The icefield is the largest in North America’s Rocky Mountains.  Big-wheeled snow coaches were taking visitors up a steep road for a short walk on the glacier (a neat experience we enjoyed in September 2014).  

Banff National Park

The next day, we continued along the parkway and stopped mid-morning to hike up a steep 1.5-mile trail to Peyto Lake Viewpoint.  At the end of the trail, we stepped onto a crowded platform for a magnificent view of turquoise Peyto Lake far below framed by the rugged mountains.

A view of Peyto Lake and the Canadian Rockies

Our drive ended in the town of Banff, where we enjoyed touring the town during our two-night stay in the area.  Parking in the area is very crowded and expensive, so we purchased day passes for public buses that go to most of the local points of interest.  It was nice not to drive for a couple of days!    

Suspended walkway in Johnston Canyon and Lower Johnston Falls

We hiked along narrow suspended walkways to Johnston Lower Falls and later visited a nice waterfall on the Bow River very close to the town of Banff.  The Bow River flows from the Columbia Icefield/Athabasca Glacier as it makes its way to the Columbia River and Pacific Ocean.

Banff is a very walkable town, with much of the downtown area closed to auto traffic

(You may find it interesting that rivers originating from the Columbia Icefield flow into the Atlantic, Pacific and Arctic oceans! Besides the two rivers mentioned above, a third, the Saskatchewan River, eventually reaches the Atlantic Ocean via Lake Winnipeg and Hudson Bay)

Banff is Canada’s first national park.  Combined with Jasper and other national parks in the Canadian Rockies, they offer amazing opportunities to see beautiful mountains and rivers, and abundant wildlife.

Like Yellowstone NP in the US, many persons visit the parks and roads/parking lots/trails/viewpoints are often crowded, even during the mid-September ‘shoulder’ season when we visited.   We recommend advance planning and making reservations for the best experience!

Our four-day visit was not sufficient to see all Banff and Jasper parks have to offer.  We hope to visit the area again in the future.

Critter Count

Deer – 5
Elk – 23
Canadian Geese – lots, especially in Jasper Campground
Grouse – 1
Bighorn Sheep – 6

Big horn sheep near entrance to Jasper NP; Canadian geese left unsavory calling cards in the campground

Bow Lake

Cinnamon Bun Review

We stopped at Bow Lake to view the towering mountains beyond the lake. Our walk took us past Hanging Glacier Cafe where a sign indicated they had fresh baked sticky buns.

We had to give one a try.

Although not technically a ‘cinnamon bun,’ the sticky bun had nice flavor with a very slight cinnamon taste. The pastry was topped with salt crystals that gave each bite a salty, sweet crunch. Outside, we shared the bun and enjoyed the magnificent view.

Sticky bun and coffee at Hanging Glacier Cafe

Bun score – 4+ out of 5

Next week:

From Banff NP, it was still nearly 2800 miles home. We came up with a plan to make the long trip a little more interesting.

A Smoky Finish to the Alaska Highway

(2023 Alaska Revisited Ep 25)

We completed the amazing and grueling 1000+-mile journey on the Dempster Highway and made our way to Whitehorse, where we caught up on more than a week’s worth of laundry and pressure washed the dirt and mud off of Percy and Pap.   

Before: Percy and Pap were covered with a thick layer of Dempster dirt and mud
After: spiffy clean and ready to continue
World’s Smallest Desert?

Catch-up chores completed, we continued south on the Alaska Highway.  We detoured a few miles to see the Carcross Desert. Said to be the world’s smallest, the desert is a series of sand dunes about a square mile in size.

Desert dunes in Canada?

Actually, the area is too humid to be a true desert.  The dunes were left behind by dried-up glacial lakes.

Smoky Roads        
Smoky conditions along the Alaska Highway

That night we camped about an hour outside Watson Lake, and arose the next morning to the smell of smoke.  The smoke was from large forest fires further south in British Columbia.  At the junction to the Cassiar Highway, the route we drove up to the Yukon in June, the road was closed due to the fires.

Pat locates our 2023 RabbiTRAILS sign

At Watson Lake, we checked on our two signs in the smoky sign post forest – we found them amidst the 100,000+ other signs on display!          

Beautiful mountains and lakes were hidden by the smoke

The next 250 miles of the Alaska Highway are perhaps the most scenic and remote of the entire route.  Unfortunately, the mountains and lakes were almost entirely obscured by the thick wildfire smoke. 

Critter Sightings

The wildlife was abundant however.

A large herd of wood bison along the Alaska Highway

One morning, we stopped to watch several large groups of wood bison grazing along the road.  There were a lot of frisky calves running about and a few adults with obvious attitudes.  We hoped they wouldn’t head butt our truck or camper.

(In case you were wondering, Canadian wood bison are larger than their US cousins. Males can reach six feet at the shoulder and weigh more than 2000 pounds)

The bison seemed unaffected by passing vehicles; this brute passed just a few feet away

We saw several black bears foraging along the road. Small groups of caribou crossed in front of us as well.

Grazing on the roadside flowers
These caribou dodged vehicles and went back and forth several times

At Liard Hot Springs, park officials have taken significant efforts to keep bears away from visitors. The campground and parking areas are surrounded with electric fencing and the entry gate looks like a secure border crossing!

It occurred to us the bears might be enjoying seeing all of the people captive within the fences!

Liard Hot Springs visitors were safe within the electric fence
Liard Hot Springs bathing area, great for a late summer swim
A Must-See Museum of Alaska Highway Artifacts

The next morning we spent a couple hours at the Ft Nelson Heritage Museum.  Marl Brown, the museum founder, collected and preserved an amazing assortment of displays and artifacts that fill more than eight museum buildings.

The museum includes a number of vintage cars and trucks, recreated trapper’s cabin, general store, post office, small church, telephone switchboard, large oil derrick, all kinds of tools and much more.  Charles Hattenstein, Pat’s dad and a collector of an assortment of interesting items, would have really enjoyed the museum. 

The museum includes dozens of vintage vehicles like these and a collection of signs and garage items

The museum is an interesting ‘must see’ for those traveling the Alaska Highway.


The final 250 miles of the Alaska Highway (going south) are generally less scenic, passing through gently rolling hills covered with dense forests and across several large rivers.  Oil and gas are produced in the region and the result is a lot of heavy equipment and pickup truck traffic.

Finishing the Alaska Highway

Beginning and end signposts on the Alaska Highway

Our 2023 trip on the Alaska Highway came to an end at Dawson Creek.   Technically, the Alaska Highway starts with milepost 0 at Dawson Creek and ends at milepost 1422 at Delta Junction in Alaska. 

Regardless of the direction traveled, the road is long and memorable.  We’ve been blessed to have driven it twice!

Critter Count

Red fox – 2
Swans – 6
Black bears – 9
Wood bison – 100+
Caribou -10
Grouse – 1
Rabbit – 1
Coyote – 1
Sassy Raven – 1 (hung out on Pat’s side mirror)

Cinnamon Bun Review

A couple hours north of Ft Nelson, we stopped at Tetsa River Lodge to try their famed cinnamon rolls.  Each bun was reasonably sized (unlike the family of four-sized buns we previously reviewed), so Pat and I each had our own bun (and coffee, of course). 

As we pulled off and ate pieces, sweet and gooey cinnamon oozed from between the coiled layers of our fresh-baked buns.  Each warm piece had a bit of icing that had melted into a perfect glaze.

Cinnamon bun perfection at Tetsa River Lodge

The buns were as good as their reputation!

Bun score – 5 out of 5

Next Week

A visit to scenic Jasper and Banff National Parks, our final RabbiTRAILS in Canada.