Welcome to Canada!

(2018 Alaska Ep 22)

On June 6, after nearly 7000 miles and more than seven weeks, we crossed into Canada near Sweetgrass Montana.

We were a little stressed – we had to have passports, auto and camper registration papers, and proof of insurance. We needed details about prescription medications. We had to ensure we didn’t have any food items that weren’t allowed. And we needed proof that our bear spray was for bears only, not people! Still we wondered if there was something we forgot or if we would have to endure an extensive search of our truck and camper.

We weren’t alone in our concerns about the border. There are numerous YouTube videos with border crossing horror stories.

We reached the Canadian Customs checkpoint and gave the agent our paperwork. He asked us a few questions and we were on our way in just over five minutes. We were wonderfully relieved!

After our first night in Taber, Alberta (RabbiTRAILS Alaska Map, pt #25), we continued to Drumheller (map pt #26), a small town well known for several significant dinosaur discoveries. At the Royal Tyrell Museum you can walk through exhibits of the various eras of the dinosaurs and other prehistoric life. There are lots and lots of full-sized dinosaur fossils to gawk at.

And to think it all happened in six days!

Later we witnessed the world’s largest dinosaur in the center of town – an 86-foot T-rex. We even saw him breathe a little smoke – this was a sight to behold!

Thinking back to the first few days of our trip, we wondered how Superman would fare with an 86-foot tall T-rex. Apparently others have wondered about this as well as chronicled in Action Comics!

We camped at Pope Lease Pines, about 10 miles outside Drumheller, surrounded by gently rolling wheat fields that extended as far as the eye could see. The campground was in the midst of tall trees that provided protection from the wind. We enjoyed the evening breezes and sounds of the prairie.

Next to the entry road was a Sawyer-Massey Peerless Separator, Model 1315 thresher. This was used in the early 1900s to harvest wheat. It must have taken weeks and weeks to harvest the wheat. How things have changed!

On to the Alcan and Alaska

This morning (June 12), we headed northwest to Alaska after several days in Edmonton (map pt #27).

We expect to reach Mile 0 of the Alaska-Canada (Alcan) Highway tomorrow (map pt #29) and take up to two weeks to cross back into the US near Tok, Alaska. This will be the most remote part of our trip and we will do our best to provide blog updates every few days!

Great Falls: If Only Lewis and Clark Had Known…

(2018 Alaska Ep 21)

We left Cody on Monday, June 4, headed for Great Falls, Montana (RabbiTRAILS Alaska Map, pt #24).

On the way we had an interesting experience near Billings. Our GPS routed us to the middle of nowhere (actually to the very small town of Molt, Montana). We reached a point where our only choice was one of several dirt roads.

We decided to backtrack, and after 30 minutes, we were on the correct road to Great Falls! This was a lesson to be careful what you put your faith in and to double check routing with a map!

During our stay in Great Falls, we learned the Lewis and Clark Expedition passed through the area in 1804. As they travelled upriver, they were expecting a single set of falls on the Missouri River. There were actually five!

The Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center located on the bluffs above the river gives an excellent chronology of the expedition.

Adjacent to the center is a great bike trail along the Missouri River. We biked part of the trail to see views of three of the waterfalls encountered by Lewis and Clark, and the dams that have been built to control the river.

Giant Springs State Park is also on that trail. More than 150 million gallons of water flows from the springs into the Missouri River each day. Lewis and Clark even noted the springs during their expedition.

The springs reminded us of some of the first magnitude springs in Florida. At 54 degrees year-round, the Giant Springs would be a bit cold for Florida manatees however!

After two nights in Great Falls we continued north and became international travelers when we crossed the border into Canada!

Yellowstone NP: Final Blog

(2018 Alaska Ep 20)

By all accounts, Yellowstone is a great place to spend a day, a week or even longer. It is unequaled in its scenery, thermal features, animals and much more.

We’ve compiled a list of our faves and not-so-faves. The not-so-faves are not complaints, but reminders that Yellowstone is wild and remote and lacks some of the comforts of home. These require some forethought and planning when visiting.

Faves

(Pat) Wildlife
(Ed) Great campgrounds (and hotels) throughout the park that allow visitors to be closer to the other faves.
(Pat) Solitude – gives an undistracted chance to recognize and enjoy God’s amazing creation.
(Ed) Snow-covered mountains and beautiful views throughout the park.
(Pat) Hiking and biking trails that give an opportunity to exercise and to see things not seen from the main areas of the park.
(Ed) The foresight of leaders 240+ years ago to create the park, and the National Park Service who maintain and manage the park and many others like it.
(Pat) Geysers and other thermal features found only in a few places in the world.
(Ed) Roads and facilities – in good shape overall considering the harshness of winter and heavy use by visitors.

Not-So-Faves

(Pat) Crowds and traffic – we were in Yellowstone during Memorial Day weekend. The park is busy through early September.
(Ed) Weather – some facilities and parts of the park are closed/inaccessible until mid-June. In addition, weather can quickly change, from sunny and cool to rainy/snowy and bitter cold.
(Pat) Prices – gas, groceries, dining, souvenirs and camping fees are all much higher.
(Ed) Drivers and pedestrians – you have to be continually watchful for drivers/persons excited to see wildlife who forget/ignore rules of the road and overall safety.
(Ed) Connectivity – only a few areas have cell phone service. Service is limited to voice calls only, data/Internet access is very slow or nonexistent (at least for Verizon).

The faves FAR OUTWEIGH the not-so-faves. We look forward to visiting Yellowstone again one day.

Perhaps the sign when leaving Roosevelt Lodge says it best…

Yellowstone NP: Heels and Wheels

(2018 Alaska Ep 19)

Heels

There are great day hikes throughout Yellowstone. We enjoyed a couple.

After a visit to Lamar Valley in the northeast corner of Yellowstone where we saw lots of buffalo and a group of big horn sheep, we decided on the Lost Lake Hike.

From Roosevelt Lodge, we followed a series of switchbacks as the trail climbed more than 400 feet to the top of a mountain. A short ways further we found Lost Lake, a quiet lake in the cradle of several surrounding mountains.

The trail continued along a creek to the parking lot for a petrified tree. This was a bonus as we didn’t associate petrified trees with Yellowstone.

From there, a very steep 300-foot climb led to a mountaintop meadow. The view of the distant mountains was spectacular.

Hikes don’t always yield the expected.

We hiked the Elephant Back trail later in the week for a grand view of Yellowstone Lake and the distant mountains.

The trail was muddy and as we neared the top, we discovered it was covered with deep snow! We were unable to continue. When it started to rain, we put on ponchos and trudged back to the parking lot, muddy, cold and tired.

We caught a glimpse of the lake and mountains part way up the trail. A more interesting find was a small pine tree growing on the top of a rock. This reminded us of the perseverance and faith needed when facing day hikes in the rain, long trips to Alaska and the challenges of life. Praise God for His presence and steadfastness in every situation!

Wheels

We learned about and rode several bike trails added to Yellowstone in recent years.

Our first ride took us 2.5 miles to Lone Star Geyser.

A few short sections of the trail were still covered with snow and we had to walk our bikes through them.

We parked our bikes when we arrived at the geyser and to our delight, Lone Star geyser began to erupt!

A couple days later we rode four miles down another road to the backside of one of the largest and most beautiful thermal springs in Yellowstone, Grand Prismatic Spring. We parked our bikes and followed a short trail to an overlook with a phenomenal view of the spring.

On the way back, we rode close enough to a group of buffalo to hear them grunting and snorting! Fortunately we passed by safely.

Yellowstone NP: Animals, Oh My!

(2018 Alaska Ep 18)

Yellowstone never disappoints with an amazing diversity of wildlife. And the reaction of visitors to the wildlife is sometimes more interesting than the wildlife itself.

More than our previous visits to Yellowstone, buffalo could be seen throughout the park – singles on hillsides, groups of a few walking down the road, larger groups grazing in the meadows and so on. In fact, unless there was a danger to traffic or walkers/hikers, it seemed the reaction of most persons to the buffalo was pretty much ho-hum.

The buffalo were everywhere, or at least the telltale signs of buffalo were everywhere. One buffalo below seems to be viewing a hot spring near Mud Volcano (below). When we were camping at Madison, a fellow camper stopped by to remark the biggest buffalo he had seen spent the day in our campsite. Wish I had a picture of that to share.

We didn’t see moose or wolves during our visit, but we did see a coyote and several big horn sheep.

What created the most excitement were bears.

Anytime cars were stopped in the middle of the road, people were crossing with cameras and binoculars with no heed to oncoming traffic and waving at their family members to do the same, a bear had been sighted.

Fortunately, both bears we saw were a long distance away and no danger to anyone. We only had to worry about the crazy drivers…

Yellowstone NP: Thermal Features

(2018 Alaska Ep 17)

People come to Yellowstone to view fascinating geothermal features. Although these features are located throughout the park, many of the features are located close together in areas called basins – these are the areas most park visitors frequent.

There are various types of thermal features – fumaroles (steam vents), geysers, hot springs, mudpots and travertine terraces (the link above has details about each).

What would a visit to Yellowstone be without seeing Old Faithful! Contrary to what you might think, Old Faithful doesn’t erupt hourly – it is more like every 90 minutes.

The rangers have gotten pretty good at predicting the time of the next eruption. Although we missed one eruption when it occurred 10 minutes early, we enjoyed an eruption later in the day that occurred exactly when predicted!

What this photo doesn’t show is the wide boardwalk along one side of Old Faithful that includes benches and standing areas for hundreds of people. Behind that is Old Faithful Lodge, stores, restaurants, a gas station, huge parking areas and more. Everyone wants to see this iconic piece of Yellowstone.

We saw another geyser erupt while driving Firehole Lake Drive, a couple miles from Old Faithful. It was starting to rain, but White Dome Geyser didn’t disappoint.

You may have seen recent news about another Yellowstone geyser that has erupted eight times this year after infrequent eruptions in recent years. Steamboat Geyser’s eruptions are much larger than Old Faithful. Unfortunately we weren’t there when it erupted – we missed it by three days.

Another interesting thermal feature several miles away from Old Faithful is the Mud Volcano. This feature is pretty tame now, but in the past it eruptions were a lot more vigorous, like a volcano!

You can hike a short trail from the viewing area to see several interesting hot springs and the impressive Dragon’s Mouth fumarole. This feature sounds (and smells) like a dragon’s mouth!There are MANY more thermal features in Yellowstone – 10,000 by one estimate. We are blessed to have such a place to visit. Even without the amazing scenery and wildlife, the thermal features make a visit to Yellowstone a must!

(we’ll share some additional photos in upcoming Yellowstone blog posts)

Yellowstone NP: Amazing Scenery

(2018 Alaska Ep 16)

At practically every turn Yellowstone offers inspiring beauty.

We arrived on a sunny Friday afternoon after driving west from Cody. After entering the park from the eastern entrance (park map), we were reminded that parts of the park were still emerging from winter. Throughout our week in Yellowstone, the remnants of the past winter’s snowfall were just about everywhere and temperatures were chilly – most days in the 50s/60s and nights in the 30s. Rather cool for us Floridians!

Soon we were passing by Yellowstone Lake and looked back to see the snow covered mountains we has just driven through.

Yellowstone River flows out of Yellowstone Lake. Several miles downstream it cascades over Yellowstone Falls and continues through the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. The falls are impressive – the 308-foot drop of lower Yellowstone Falls is nearly twice that of Niagara Falls!

2018 Alaska Trip 1287 - 1805291434 — View from Artist’s Point

We tested our endurance by walking down a trail to the brink of the lower falls – the drop was equal to a 60-story building. We were rewarded with a different perspective of the falls that made the hike back up the trail worth it!

Yellowstone has stunning mountain vistas…

…and broad valleys where wildlife abounds.

Hopefully this gives you an idea of the scenery we enjoyed during our visit.

You might be wondering about the Yellowstone fires that burned almost 800,000 acres or more than 1/3 of the park in 1988. Pat and I were amazed at the recovery of the burned areas – thick new stands of lodgepole pines and other trees are more than 20 feet tall in many areas. The forest is well on its way to recovery after 30 years!

2018 Alaska Trip 1145 - 1805261232 — New forest growth near Old Faithful

Of course, there is much more to Yellowstone than scenery. We’ll cover thermal features and animals in upcoming blog posts, as well as some of the hiking and biking we enjoyed.

Yellowstone NP

(2018 Alaska Ep 15)

(Sorry for the delay in blog posts. There is no (free) wifi in Yellowstone and cell service is voice only in very limited areas)

We’ve just returned from a great week in Yellowstone National Park.

Yellowstone was established as America’s first national park in 1872, and is widely held to be the world’s first national park.

Yellowstone is treasured by Americans and visited by persons from all over the world. We met persons from numerous US states and from Canada, Japan, China and India. They were as awestruck with the scenery, thermal features and animals as we were!

This is our fifth visit to Yellowstone since we were married 38 years ago.

2018 Alaska Trip 1398 - 1805311906 — Cooking dinner after a busy day touring Yellowstone…Dutch oven chili with cornbread.

This time we stayed in three different campgrounds in the park (RabbiTRAILS Alaska Map pts #20-22). This allowed us to spend less time driving to/from hotels and campgrounds outside the park and more time in the park seeing Yellowstone.

Watch for upcoming blog posts about Yellowstone scenery, thermal features, animals, hiking and biking, and our list of things we like and don’t like about Yellowstone.

Until then…

A Two Day Visit with Buffalo Bill

(2018 Alaska Ep 14)

We’ve been at Cody, Wyoming (RabbiTRAILS Alaska Map pt #19) for the past four days. Tomorrow we head to Yellowstone National Park for eight days. After Yellowstone, a quick return to Cody for a couple nights and then ON TO ALASKA!

We decided to visit Cody in part because of the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, a museum that is actually FIVE museums:

Buffalo Bill Museum – tells about the life of William Cody, aka Buffalo Bill – Army scout, entrepreneur, showman, founder of Cody and American icon.
Whitney Western Art Museum – western-themed paintings and sculpture, with originals from Remington, Proctor, Sharp and many more.
Cody Firearms Museum – impressive historical firearms collections from many manufacturers – Smith and Wesson, Winchester, Colt and others.
Plains Indian Museum – exhibits of Plains Indian peoples, their cultures, traditions, values, and histories, and the impact these on their lives today.
Draper Natural History Museum – immersive, informative and inspiring displays about the greater Yellowstone ecosystem, from alpine regions to the plains.

In front of the museum, in keeping with the western theme, was a chuckwagon and gentleman who was making coffee in an old time coffee pot, campfire beans from scratch and sourdough biscuits.

Anyone who stopped by got free samples and a bit of cowboy cooking history.

Never one to turn down free food and VERY INTERESTED in Dutch oven cooking, this was a highlight of my day!

It took us two full days to see the museums. If you are ever in the area, be sure to visit this great museum!

We spent the other days doing more mundane things getting ready for Yellowstone: cleaning the camper and truck, laundry, haircuts, adjusting camper tire pressure and checking lug nuts, grocery shopping, buying hiking boots…and of course, a couple hours walking downtown Cody looking for neat western souvenirs!

Petroglyphs NM: Antient Art or Graffiti?

(2018 Alaska Ep 13)

A fascinating part of our travels has been to visit several locations with petroglyphs. Some 400-700 (or perhaps more) years ago, people chipped away the thin desert varnish on rock faces to reveal the lighter gray rock underneath – this left lasting marks we wonder about and enjoy today.

The marks certainly had cultural significance – they give clues about what was on the minds of the people at that time. Some say they have religious significance as well.

We visited Petroglyph National Monument in Albuquerque (RabbiTRAILS Alaska Map pt #13). The sprawl of the city now encircles the monument. Hundreds of petroglyphs can be viewed in three main areas. We endured a very warm couple mile hike to one – Piedras Marcadas Canyon. It was worth it!

A few days later we visited another site within Dinosaur National Monument (Map pt #17). Actually there is a lot to do there besides dinosaur stuff.

There were a number of lizards on one rock face. We wondered how the large lizard was etched, considering it is nearly 15 feet above the ledge below.

Finally, when we were in Thermopolis (Map pt #18), we saw a modern petroglyph. Perhaps today’s graffiti will be studied and valued hundreds of years from now!