Heartland Bound and Catching Up (part 1)

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(2024 Heartland Ep 1)

Welcome to RabbiTRAILS as we get underway with our summer 2024 travels. 

After an epic 2023 journey to Alaska, we are staying (much) closer to home this year.

Why 2024 Heartland? 

Much of our trip this year will be traveling through the central United States heartland from Texas to Minnesota.  We’re bound to see oilwells, windmills, cattle herds, cicadas and miles of cornfields. Hopefully we won’t encounter tornadoes and hailstorms!

Other affairs of the heart will be at play as we travel:  catching up with family in Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas and possibly Connecticut, and a visit with a close friend in New Hampshire.

We top it all off with something near and dear to our hearts:  two weeks serving at Camp Cedarbrook camps in Texas and Ohio.  As we connect all of this together, we’ll be on the lookout for interesting RabbiTRAILS to follow and share with you.

Before things get underway, there’s some catching up needed since our last blog post in December: 2023 Alaska Revisited Recap.

Catching Up, Part 1

Earlier this year Percy, Pap and a new addition carried us on a couple trips.

When we travel closer to home, Pat and I enjoy kayaking in addition to biking.  There’s no easy way to take kayaks with our current setup, so we purchased a small utility trailer and configured it to haul two kayaks, our bikes and assorted other camping gear.  Introducing Junior, Percy and Pap’s first cousin!    

Junior, our little utility trailer, joins Percy and Pap
Our travels included Tomoka and Manatee Springs State Parks in Florida

Tomoka State Park

In January, we camped with longtime friends, John and Carol, at Tomoka State Park a few miles north of Daytona Beach.  Located on the Tomoka River, the park includes the site of an ancient Timucuan Indian village and a large statue of Timucuan Chief Tomokie.  The monument is a reminder that the area was populated by Native Americans for centuries before Europeans arrived.

Chief Tomokie statue in Tomoka State Park

For several days we kayaked, biked and took several local side trips.  We toured nearby Bulow Plantation Ruins Historic State Park.  Developed in 1821, the plantation was once the largest plantation in East Florida where indigo, cotton, rice and sugarcane were cultivated.  The plantation was destroyed in the Seminole War of 1836, and, although many of the original plantation structures no longer exist, sizeable remnants of a large sugar mill can still be seen.  The plantation is an interesting part of Florida history.

Ruins of the sugar mill at Bulow Ruins Historic State Park

Aunt Catfish’s Cinnamon Bun

We stopped for lunch at Aunt Catfish’s on the River restaurant in Port Orange.  The menu offerings were what one would expect at a southern-style seafood restaurant. We learned they served homemade cinnamon buns and it was game on!  Although the buns were smaller than the ginormous buns we sampled on our 2023 Alaska Revisited journey, they were wonderfully sweet and cinnamony.  We had to have more than one to satisfy our bun craving!

Manatee Springs State Park

We left Tomoka and crossed the state, where we camped at Manatee Springs State Park. 

Manatee Springs is a first magnitude (e.g. large) spring that flows into the Suwannee River.  A boardwalk extends nearly a quarter mile from the spring through a swampy area with tall Spanish moss-covered cypress trees.  The boardwalk ends at a small pier on the Suwannee River. 

A quarter mile boardwalk runs from Manatee Springs to the Suwannee River

One morning we kayaked the run and along the Suwannee for several miles, where we enjoyed the sunny, cool and quiet surroundings.

Pat and Carol kayaking near Manatee Springs

When we returned to the spring, we were delighted to find several manatees swimming near the boat launch area.  We paused for several minutes to watch the large potato-shaped animals swim about and surface from time to time.  I used my GoPro camera to capture some underwater photos of the spectacle.      

Manatee and reflection at Manatee Springs SP

As we walked along the boardwalk one evening, we noticed the cypress trees surrounding the spring run were filled with hundreds of large, American black vultures. It was a rather Gothic spectacle in the evening twilight.

Hundreds of vultures watched us from cypress trees near the springs

Our Manatee Springs stay included visits to Cedar Key, where we rode our bicycles around the small Gulf Coast community, and Fanning Springs, where we admired a remnant of an old bridge that crossed the Suwannee River inscribed with the title of Stephen Foster’s memorable song, “Way Down Upon the Suwannee River!”

One of four spans from the bridge that crossed the Suwannee River at Fanning Springs has been preserved. The bridge was built in 1934.

Henry Turns 6

Our trip ended near Macon, GA with a sixth birthday celebration for our grandson, Henry.

Son-in-law Josh, daughter Liz, and grandkids, Emilia and Henry; Henry celebrates his birthday

Next Week

Catching Up (part 2): Florida Keys and Everglades National Park

Three Rivers Side Trip #3 – Florida Caverns

After spending New Year’s Day 2020 at Three Rivers State Park, we headed a half hour west for a visit to Florida Caverns State Park on January 2.  The park is a few miles outside Marianna, Florida.

As we entered the park, the effects of Hurricane Michael were still very visible.  Once dense forests that lined the road to the visitor center parking area are gone and the terrain is much like Three Rivers State Park – wide open areas with haggard trees here and there.  Homes and other development are visible not far away.    It will take years for the forest to recover.

At the visitor center we purchased tickets for the one-hour guided cave tour.  Tours fill quickly, so it is a good idea to get tickets when you first arrive and then tour the visitor center and park store while waiting for your tour to begin.

Entering Florida Caverns
Entering Florida Caverns

The Caverns

Florida sits atop layers of limestone and caves are pretty common.  Most of Florida’s caves, however, are underwater connected to beautiful freshwater springs and reached only using SCUBA equipment.  Florida Caverns is the only air-filled cave in Florida to offer tours.

The main cave entrance and portions of the tour were inaccessible due to flooding from recent rains, so we entered the cave through a secondary entrance nearby.  We descended down more than 30 stairs, and once inside, we enjoyed stunning rock formations, including limestone stalagmites and stalactites, flowstones, soda straws, draperies, and more.

Formations 3
View of amazing cave formations

Beginning in the 1930s, the Civilian Conservation Corps excavated the tour cave using pickaxes and hand tools.   Most of the cave passages were originally only a few feet tall.  Tours of the cave have been offered since 1942 and span an area of nearly two acres under the surface.

Interesting artifacts that can be viewed in the cave include CCC lanterns and white bowls embedded in the ceilings to reflect the lights.

We learned various animals call the cave home – bats, mice, cave crickets, salamanders, cave spiders and occasionally snakes and frogs.  Fortunately we didn’t encounter any of these during our visit.

Here are additional views of the cavern formations:

The cave tour takes you up close and personal to the formations in a dozen or so cave rooms, unlike tours of much larger caves like Carlsbad Caverns and Mammoth Cave.

Tour Group
Our tour group in one of the cave rooms
Dont Touch
Visitors were allowed to touch only one formation in the cave, so I took the opportunity!

Florida Caverns are an enjoyable and cool way to spend a morning or afternoon while in the area.

Next week:  we take a blog break as we head to Juniper Springs and Anastasia State Park in search of new rabbit trails!

Three Rivers Side Trip #2: Havana and Thomasville

It was a cold morning at Three Rivers State Park.

We put a hold on outdoor activities and decided to take a day trip to Havana instead. Not THE Havana in Cuba, but Havana, Florida, some 45 minutes away.

Downtown Havana
Fountain Entry to Havana

Havana is a small town located a few miles outside Tallahassee.  In 1906, the town was named for its Cuban cousin because of shade tobacco, a major crop grown in the area.  Shade tobacco was used to wrap fine cigars and Havana was one of two areas in the United States suitable for growing the tobacco.

Downtown Havana
Havana Christmas Decorations

In the 1960s, the town fell on hard times when shade tobacco production moved to Central America and elsewhere.  Some 20 years later an antique shop opened in Havana, and the town has since become a quaint destination for antique stores and art galleries.

We visited on 2020 eve, planning to enjoy a relaxed lunch as we looked around.  Christmas displays, lights and large painted wooden greeting cards throughout the town gave it a friendly and inviting appeal.

However, except for a couple furniture galleries, all of the other shops, galleries and restaurants were CLOSED!  We presume this was to get a head start on New Year’s Eve celebrations.

A bit disappointed, we decided to continue our day trip to Thomasville, Georgia.  We resolved, however, to return one day to enjoy what Havana has to offer.


Our route to Thomasville took us through rural Florida into rural Georgia.  We passed by fertile farmlands, dense woods and numerous creeks.

It was lunchtime when we arrived and we stopped at Fallin’s Real Pit Barbeque.  Fallin’s is an old time barbecue that serves mouthwatering ribs, pork, brisket, chicken and much more.  We left completely satisfied.

Our next stop was downtown Thomasville.

Thomasville
Downtown Thomasville

The town’s central shopping district is nicely done, with interesting shops and restaurants.  We visited a few open shops and before long, decided to head back to the campground.

There is a LOT MORE to see in Thomasville and it would be a great weekend destination for an anniversary or other special occasion.


Pebble Hill Entry
Pebble Hill Plantation

On our return trip we stopped at Pebble Hill Plantation, located a few miles south of Thomasville.

The plantation was established in the 1820s and now includes a beautiful mansion with horse barns and finely manicured grounds.  We took a guided tour of the multi-roomed mansion and an amazing upstairs art collection that included several original Picasso paintings.

After the tour, we walked through the horse stables and several other buildings, and then around the grounds for more than hour.

Pebble Hill Mansion
Pebble Hill Grounds
Pebble Hill Grounds

Pebble Hill has an interesting history.   The plantation offers a nice half day diversion while in the area.


Blackeyed peas and greens
Black-eyed peas and greens – starting 2020 right!

Back at the campground, we ate dinner and settled down for a quiet New Years’ Eve.  Our New Years’ Day dinner plans included black-eyed peas and collard greens – for good luck in 2020 of course!


Next week:  after a low key New Year’s Day. we travel to Florida Caverns, Florida’s version of the famous cave located near Carlsbad, New Mexico.

Three Rivers Side Trip #1: Woodruff Dam

After setting up at and exploring Three Rivers State Park, we wanted to know more about Lake Seminole.  This meant a short drive east from Three Rivers State Park toward the small town of Chattahoochee and the Apalachicola River.

Jim Woodruff Dam 2
Jim Woodruff Dam

As we crossed the Apalachicola River, the impressive Jim Woodruff Dam was to our left.  It captured our attention as such a dam is rather unusual for Florida.

Jim Woodruff Lock-Dam Aerial View
Aerial View (U.S. Army Corps of Engineers photo) 

Completed in 1952, the Woodruff Dam includes a single lock for boats and hydroelectric generators that can power 43,000 homes!

Lake Seminole backs up behind the 1000 ft long earthen dam. The lake is located where the Flint and Chattahoochee Rivers originally came together, covers 37,500 acres and has a shoreline of more than 350 miles.   There are plenty of recreational opportunities in the more than 30 parks and 5 campgrounds all around the lake.

We wanted a closer look at the dam and drove a few miles from Chattahoochee to the dam itself.  We crossed from Florida into Georgia, and then back into Florida before arriving.

After parking below the dam, we followed a steep sidewalk to get a closer look at the multiple spillways and power generating plant.  From the high sidewalk, several persons held study fishing poles hoping to catch one of large catfish said to live in the deep water below the powerhouse.

Apalachicola High Waters
High waters below the dam

There is also a sidewalk and a few covered tables next to the river, but these were temporarily flooded as excess water from recent rains was being released from the dam.

From another parking area nearby, we had a broader view of the dam, lock and spillways, and the bridge we had driven across earlier.

The dam is a nice half day diversion from Three Rivers State Park, with opportunities to walk a bit and look around.  A small Corps of Engineers visitor center is nearby with additional information about the dam and Lake Seminole.


Next week we’ll explain why the best time to visit Havana is NOT just before New Years.  We had to continue on to Thomasville, Georgia – a beautiful southern town with great bar-b-que, a scenic downtown and historic plantation nearby.

Three Rivers State Park: A Healing Landscape

Sign

Philip Spyckaboer hunkered down in his solid brick home waiting for Hurricane Michael.  It was October 10, 2018 and the hurricane was approaching Three Rivers State Park from the Gulf of Mexico some 75 miles away.

As the hurricane eye passed overhead, he emerged to inspect the damage.  In the eerie stillness he knew his job as head ranger would be dramatically changed forever.

Pat and I spoke with Spyckaboer during a recent five-night camping trip to the state park.  Although considerable recovery efforts have been taken place over the last 15 months, damage from the category 5 hurricane is still very much evident.  Recovery will continue for years in the future.

He explained recovery efforts have included debris removal and replanting.  Some cleared areas now have growths of new grasses and small trees, while tree removal continues in other areas.  Some areas will be burned to stimulate new growth.

We proceeded slowly along the potholed entry road and enjoyed views of Lake Seminole.  The popular fishing lake was formed in the 1950s by Jim Woodruff Dam built at the confluence of the Flint and Chattahoochee Rivers.  The dam empties into the Apalachicola River on its way to the Gulf of Mexico.

Lake View
Lake Seminole from our campsite

Our campsite had views of the lake, a small fishing pier and threadbare trees nearby.  We could only imagine how the park looked before the storm and how it will appear as the forest recovers.

From the campground there is a half mile trail that leads to a picnic/playground area for day visitors.  Although we can’t report seeing any animals during our visit, we did see various birds, including lots of ducks, several woodpeckers and a bald eagle.  We hoped to rent a canoe or kayak to try our luck at fishing, but the weather and strong winds made us decide otherwise.

We took several interesting day trips during our stay.  More on these next week.

Three Rivers State Park Essentials

Location – 53 miles west of Tallahassee, easy access from I-10 (9 miles)

Closest town – Sneads (3 miles).  Chattahoochee (8 miles) or Marianna (21 miles) have a better selection of restaurants and supplies, however.

Campground amenities – the campground has 30 campsites (each with 30/50 amp electric, water, picnic table, fire ring), dump station, clean restrooms with showers, washer/dryer and dish washing sink.  Firewood and canoe/kayak rentals. Fishing pier and boat launch.  One cabin is also available.

Connectivity – 4G AT&T cell service very good (4 bars).  I tethered and completed a blog update during our stay.  We received nearly 30 over-the-air TV channels

Hiking/Biking – there are several short hiking trails.  Biking on park roads only, closest rail trail is 50 miles away, near Tallahassee.

Lasting Impressions – beautiful lake view, awesome night sky, peaceful and quiet.  Several interesting day trips available in the area.

Watch out for bumps on the entry road!