Newfoundland Reflections

(2022 Newfoundland Ep 15)

During our six weeks on Newfoundland we traveled nearly 3000 miles.  We camped in 17 different locations including five national park, four provincial and two city campgrounds, three private campgrounds, two Harvest Host/Boondockers Welcome locations and even a pull-off on the side of the road. 

Here are some reflections on our visit:

Favorite campgrounds:  all three campgrounds in Gros Morne NP (Trout River Pond, Shallow Bay and Berry Hill).  Although only one of the three had water/electrical hookups, all three had spacious campsites with good privacy, clean and modern washrooms, and reasonably fast wifi.  Each was close to interesting and challenging hiking trails and towns with restaurants and other services.

Favorite place visited:  Pat’s was Western Brook Pond. We had amazing views during a two-hour boat trip on this steep-walled freshwater fjord in Gros Morne NP.  My choice was St John’s – lots to see and do from hiking near Cabot Tower/Signal Tower to sunrise at Cape Spear to quirky Quidi Vidi.

Best hike:  we did lots of hiking during our NF visit. Our favorite was the North Head Trail that descended steep stairs from Signal Hill and followed a cliffside trail.  The views of the St. John’s harbor were great!

Memorable cultural moment:  (Ed) NF folk tunes performed by the boat crew on the Western Brook Pond boat trip.  Pat’s was local humor and music at the Twillingate Dinner Theatre.  Both experiences gave us a sample of the free spirited and fun Newfoundlanders.

Best meal in a restaurant:  Fish and chips at Chuck’s Restaurant in Happy Adventure.  We enjoyed battered, crunchy pieces of white fish with a mountain of chips (fries).  Honorable mention:  coffee and a toasted bagel (or donut) at just about any Tim Horton’s.  TH can be found nearly everywhere on NF!

Favorite attraction:  (Ed) the North Atlantic Aviation Museum in Gander, a small museum that tells a big story about Gander.   Pat’s was the Transatlantic Cable Museum in Heart’s Content – a true RabbiTRAIL experience with historical significance that is remarkably well preserved.

Most amazing view:  as we were eating dinner at Trout River Pond Campground, we looked out the back window of Oscar. Beyond the colorful fireweed and other fall flowers immediately behind our camper, a sea of golden sunshine shone through broken clouds on the mountains across the pond.  When we stepped outside, we noticed other campers were caught up in the moment as well!

Biggest NF surprise:  (both) a surprising lack of wildlife.  We saw only four moose, no caribou and just a few other small animals and birds.  The forests were quiet and the roads were free of roadkill.

Best RabbiTRAIL:  for me it was the Transatlantic Cable Museum above.  Pat enjoyed the Ferryland Lighthouse south of St John’s.  We had a great views of the lighthouse and seacoast, and then thick fog rolled in. 

Most unique thing we did:  (Pat) the first sunrise in North America on August 30 at Cape Spear near St John’s.  Mine was leaving NF for an overnight stay on Labrador.

Next week – we flee Hurricane Fiona and endure language challenges in Quebec.