Fish Facts, A Lighthouse and More

(2022 Newfoundland Ep 9)

After two weeks exploring western NF and Labrador, we decided it was time to head to the east side of the island. 

We drove the Trans Canada Highway (TCH), the main road that zig zags across NF toward St Johns.  No guesswork on the route to take – the TCH is the only highway that crosses the island.

Atlantic Salmon at Grand Falls

The mountains of western NF gave way to rocky hills and freshwater lakes of central NF.  We camped several nights along the Exploits River in Grand Falls-Windsor and visited the Salmonid Interpretation Center, where we learned about (almost) all things Atlantic salmon.

Leon, a guide at the center, provided lots of interesting details.

Unlike their Pacific brethren, Atlantic salmon do not die after spawning.  After the salmon fry swim to the ocean to mature, they return to the section of river where they were born several times to spawn.  The fish have a salt-filled gland that makes it like they never left the ocean.

In 1984, someone had the idea to turn the Exploits River, NF’s longest, into a world class salmon river.  The salmon could not reach the river above the falls so fish ladders were built to help them swim up and downstream. 

The center monitors the fish as they come and go from the upper river in an underground viewing room. The salmon population is thriving.

Leon also explained that all Atlantic salmon ordered in restaurants or purchased in grocery stores are farmed – Atlantic salmon are not ‘wild’ like those caught in the Pacific.

Hiking at Terra Nova National Park

Leaving fish trivia behind, we continued eastward to Terra Nova National Park.  Over the next few days, we hiked a number of trails typical to the area.  The trails often start by skirting freshwater lakes or streams, continue through dense fir and spruce forests, then up steep hills (often with many stairs) to views of the rugged coast or freshwater lakes. 

We crossed a boggy area on one trail with plentiful blueberry bushes and stopped for a few minutes to pick ripe berries. For the next couple days, we enjoyed them in pancakes and with yogurt.  We were blessed by the find, as most of the blueberry bushes in the area had already passed their prime.

Bonavista Lighthouse

From Terra Nova we drove to a remote lighthouse on the Bonavista Peninsula, another one of the must-see destinations in NF. 

In 1997, we visited the Bonavista Lighthouse with our children, Liz and Phil, and while climbing the lighthouse, we saw whales breaching in the waters nearby. This time we were not so fortunate to see whales, but we did see multitudes of cute puffins, nesting in and flying around rugged rock cliffs near the lighthouse. We also saw two moose along the road a few miles before we reached the lighthouse. 

We also visited a provincial park a short distance away to see the Dungeon, a collapsed rock formation with two wave-carved sea caves that resemble the eye sockets of a skull.  It was an unexpected and interesting sight!

Fish and Chips

Before leaving to complete our eastward trek to St Johns, we enjoyed fish and chips at Chucky’s, a restaurant that overlooks a picturesque, secluded harbor.  Since coming to Canada, we have tried fish and chips several times and Chucky’s was by far the best.  The chips were prepared ‘Newfoundland’ style – with dressing (dry breadcrumbs) and gravy.  The restaurant was a bit hard to find (even with Google Maps) in a town aptly named “Happy Adventure!”

Two moose (a momma and her baby)
Hundreds of cute puffins
Atlantic salmon
A few squirrels

Next week:  Jellybeans, a cliff trail and a first sunrise in North America as we visit St. Johns